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2×4 Deck Railing Support Bracket

Supports for 2×4 railing for your wooden deck project. Similar parts can be bought from the big box home improvement stores. I custom designed the stair rail brackets to hold the rail at 30 degrees (most common for decks). Store-bought brackets DO NOT do this.

This has 3 thing files:
-90 Degree Bracket (most common)
-30 Degree Top Bracket (for high side stair railing)
-30 Degree Bottom Bracket (for low side stair railing)

For stair railing, you will need one top and one bottom for each 2×4!
For horizontal railing, you will need to print two 90 degree parts for each 2×4!

Use flat head 2″ Construction Screw wood screws to mount everything. (6 each bracket)

DO NOT USE IMPACT TO DRIVE THE SCREWS!! Use a drill/driver and set to a low clutch setting to start with, to test it out.

Side are cut back to accommodate a wooden hand rail.

I used ASA black filament for this project due to its great UV stability.

Your results may vary…..

The STL files can be found on my Thingagerse account.


Smoke Tube Pellet/Chunk Splitter

I always loved the oak chips from Jack Daniels barrels for smoking BBQ. But now since I have a pellet smoker, it makes it almost obsolete. So in an effort to use it again, I got a pellet smoker tube. BUT, the chips did not burn fully, if at all.

I designed a piece of laser-cut stainless steel to split the smoke tube in half. 50% pellets for burning fuel and 50% oak chips for that great JD flavor. Just have to fil each side with either pellets or chips, then pull the splitter out and light the tube with a torch.

The pellets provide the fuel to fully burn the chips! Every time!

Of course, it wouldn’t be complete without a bottle opener on the end!


NEMA23 Stepper Motor Cooling Fan Housing

My China heated webbing cutter uses a NEMA23 stepper to extruded and measure the webbing to cut. Early on I found out that the temp inside the machine was too high, because of the heat cutter head. So it would skip steps on the motor. The CPU would not now it skipped, so everything would turn out the wrong length.

So I strapped on some scrap aluminum CPU heat sinks. Worked fine for years. Then the drive belt broke. So I had to cut off the stainless steel wire holding on the aluminum. Instead of trying to attach it as i had it rigged before, I decided to search out a different system for cooling.

Not happy with the options I found on the web, I decided to make my own in Fusion 360!

The housing is held onto the motor with 2 zip-ties. They provide clamping to keep it on the motor. It is designed for a motor 75MM tall. And uses a 70MM 12v fan. The fan can be any thickness because it is held on with M4 screws.

Since this is in a high heat environment, I had it printed for me from PA12 Nylon, on a HP MJF printer.

You can download the STL from my Thingiverse account:


TVM802A Pick & Place Plastic Tape Support

I have a TVM802A China SMD Pick & Place machine. This thing works great for the price. It has a few draw backs compared to a higher end machine. One of which is the feeders. It uses a pin, via a coil, to advance the tape components. This seems to work fine for paper tape devices, but it DOES NOT work well for plastic tape devices! The pin fires and the tape defects, so it does not drag the tape to index the next part.

So I designed a solution in Sketchup that supports the plastic tape, at the holes, so it indexes every time! I have been testing this for 2 years-ish. And it still works, every time!

I designed 3 types for 8MM, 12MM and 16MM tape widths. (that is all this machine does) The device is attached to the feeder rail with a small piece of 3M tape to keep it in place. Then the machine works as normal. As the pin goes down to index the tape, the support keeps the tape from deflecting. They are made from PA12 Nylon, 3D printed on a HP MJF printer.

This is a great solution for thin ICs or small parts. But it does not work well for tall devices. Such as a coil inductor.

If you need some, I have a few for sale in My Store.


3D Systems Cube 3 Wiper Holster

I bought a second 3D systems Cube 3 printer, and it was missing the wiper holster (and wiper). I was able to make my own wipers, from silicone sheet, seen here. I did find some holsters on Thingiverse, but they had support built in. They said they were printable on the Cube 3…but they never turned out well.

So I took the STL and removed all the supports. Did some measurements on the OEM holster, and made a few small changes to the STL. The goal was to have it printed on a FormLabs 2 printer, but I ended up having some made on a HP 4200 MJF printer. It turned out great!

Since I had to buy a bunch to make it cost worthy, I will be selling the extras in my store.

Here is the link to my Thingiverse account if you want to download the holster STL:


PCB Delta 3D printer Effector

Since starting 3D printed many years ago, I always improve my equipment for the best possible prints I can. My first printer was a Delta style, and it is still my favorite. I own 4 printers now, 2 delta and 2 XY.

In an effort to make the best printes it was time to update my main Big Boy Delta. I wanted to go with a magnetic arm setup. The guy I got the arms from say they are precision made to within 50um (.05mm) of each other.

Now I needed an effector to connect the arms to. Also need to connect my linear slides to the arms as well. I looked for a solution. I can across some made for PCB material. I thought that would be killer. But my design was way different then theirs. So I would have to make my own.

Since the effector was a PCB, I decided to put LEDs on the bottom to help see the work. I use a BLTouch for bed leveling. My SmoothieBoard 5V regulator for not put our 100% 5V. So I added a 5V regulator to the effector too since I already have 12V running to it for the hotend fan.

Then I needed a holder for the E3D v6 hotend and a built in holder for the BLTouch. I designed one in Sketchup and printed it before installing the new effector.


DIY Fermentation Chiller UPDATE

Update for the DIY Fermentation Automatic Temp Controller:

Turns out you cannot buy a stopper with a 1″ hole in it. LOL

So, I guess I will have to make my own. <sigh>

I ordered some #10 stopper and some 1″ OD stainless steel pipe. Cut off a small portion of pipe and turned the ID into a inner bevel. Then used a 1″ flap wheel to make it smooth.

I put the new cutter, which is basically a “cork bore”, into my DIY air powered grommet press. Using a chunk of cutting board below it, I pressed the stainless pipe through the stopper.

Seems to have worked like a champ!


I was not 100% happy with the way the plug cutter cut. So I put it back into the lathe and made the edge ever sharper! I also printed a holder for the stopper to help keep its shape. While cutting with the old cutter, i noticed that it would deform when pressed, as you can see in the photo above. So the printed part now keeps the stopper from deforming while pressing. It is made with 5 inner and outer shells with 80% honey comb infill.

Only way I can think to make the cutter better is to add a shank to spin it while pressing. Could be done on a large floor drill press. But alas I have no way to weld stainless steel.

NOW it seems to have worked like a champ!


DIY Beer Fermentation Automatic Temp Control (Chiller)

I recently got back into home beer brewing. But I noticed that I had a problem with fermentation temp control with the gear I had on hand. One of the keys to good beer it fermentation at 68-70° F.

A lot of the beer community seems to wrap the fermenter in a thermal blanket, and chill it with a cooler of ice water. Seems like a lot of steps to me. I then found a device that seems to use a Pelteir with an aluminum rod to regulate the temp of the beer….but it is $350! OUCH! Kind of pricey for “home brew”.

So I decided to make my own. I have played with Pelteirs in the past. Went to amazon and ordered a 12VDC Peltier and heat sink combo, along with a 12VDC digital temp controller. The found a aluminum rod on Ebay, even had a 5/16 tapped hole in the end! All for under $50. I designed a case for the thole thing in Fusion 360, then 3D printed it…13 HOUR PRINT. I also replaced the controllers screw terminals with removable screw terminals.

Once I got all my parts in, I had to modify the heat sink to work with aluminum rod. Then did some tests with the new set up in a 2Gal water cooler jug. Which will be my new fermenter! This should help keep the beer at a more steady rate. So no need to wrap a carboy in a thermal blanket! The tests keep the water within 1° F of the target, which was set to 67° F. While the beer is fermenting, it may have to work a little harder to maintain due to the heat generated by the yeast. That test yet to come.

I am planing on making my own PIC based controller with some features that the DIY  and commercially available one does not currently have.

Cheers! 🍻


3D Systems Cube Gen 3 Rubber Wiper

I bought a cube 3 printer a while ago, very easy to use. So recently I found a refurb on eBay pretty cheap. It did not come with any filament or accessories, including the wipers and wiper holster. I looked online to see if I could buy the rubber wiper blade. I recall seeing them a few years ago, and they were not cheap! But I couldn’t find any.

So I 3D printed the holster and ordered some silicone 1/16″ mat to laser cut my own wiper!

If you would like to buy some, I will be selling them in my store. Here


ULINE Heat Sealer Strap

I bought 2 brand new ULINE poly bag heat sealers. Both of them came with an extruded plastic strap to keep the handle closed when not in use.
Somehow my kids managed to lose both of them…ARGGG!

So I designed a new one in Sketchup. Super basic design. Printed with ABS with an infill of 50%.

You can find the STL file on my Thingiverse profile: