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Posts from the ‘Electronics’ Category


3D Printed Case For Quadcopter Flight Board

On I found a protective case for the flight board I used for my quadcopter. It’s the MultiWii PRO board from HobbyKing. So I printed off a copy … and away we go!

The GPS tower was not part of the case, it was a different “thing”. But they work well together. I had to mod the files a little to use some aluminum rod to hold up the GPS pod.


IMG_20131222_114002 IMG_20131221_173219 IMG_20131220_204637 IMG_20131220_082524 IMG_20131218_154358



Birth of a 3D printer – Part 1

I have been looking into DIY 3d printing for some time now. I have even went as far as to gather a few parts here and there over the past year. But now I have a real need for one, so I have decided to pull the trigger and get it done!

Originally I was looking into making a ORD BOT style of printer. The cost of the wheel bearings and the MakerSlide t-slot materials was going to cost to much. That’s why I have been putting off the project for this long.

In mid 2012 the Rostock Delta Printer was developed. The printer featured high speed printing and a very low part count for building it, lower then ORD BOT. Thus I decided to make the Rostock instead.

To save on the overall cost, I sourced all the parts over the internet, rather then buying a complete kit. The only downside to this is that all the part will show up over a 2 week period, and not all at once. I will show case the build in parts, starting with  the parts I have on hand.



I ordered the main parts kit on EBay.
I have already installed the metric screws and one of the motors.


I went with the 8MM sliding bearings, but instead of using precision rod, I used 5/16″ cold rolled rod.
The kit came with a printed Nylon bearing. But it seemed to bind up when it was sliding.


The yoke ends need a rod to connect the 2 together. Some people use wooden dowels, or fiberglass rods from the RC store. I used some 1/4″ aluminum rod I had laying around. It was to big to fit in the yoke, so I had to turn down each end of the rod to fit it on to the yokes.



After gluing the rods to the yokes, I needed a way to keep ALL the lengths the same while it was drying. I layed out some nails on a board, to keep them inline.



Since I am useing printed parts, the holes are a little off form the true size. I dont have metric drill bits, so i can up with a quick fix. Take the metric screw i am going to use, chuck it up in my drill. Put a washer on it, and drill it into the hole. Let the threads do the cutting. It worked great!




After looking at the rods, having the plane aluminum look, and pure board-um, I thought it wold be cool to buff them to make them shine. This should also help reduce wind resistance. LOL


I should have done this BEFORE gluing the yoke ends on -__-


The Rostock is belt driven. I needed a idler pulley for the take up of the belt. I made one from a bearing and a fender washer. I chucked it up in my lathe, and turned down the face of the washer to create the step for the bearing to move.


Here is the step in the washer.


The electronics kit I ordered did not come with ANY instructions, not even on their site :/
So in an effort to figure it out myself, I toasted the 5v regulator on the Arduino 2560 board, you know… the board that controls the entire printer -__-
I had to order a new one form Digikey, but I did learn how to look up the limit switches.




Bluetooth Module Breakout Board

This is just a simple breakout board for the RN-42 Bluetooth Module. I designed it with Eagle CAD, and made it on my CNC PCB machine.




DIY LED Light Bar REV.#2

After finishing my original light bar project here. I decided that it would be much brighter, not that its not bright….just can be brighter. One of the main goals of the original light bar was VERY low amp draw. I got that with only 3Amp from the entire bar! So the goal of the next bar will be VERY bright, and to hell with the amps!!

So enter the LED Light Bar REV.#2 🙂

The new LEDs are over 400lm each!!!

The original LEDs from the first one are about 90-100lm.



LED light bar update: COMPLETED!

I have finally finished the LED light bar! It’s installed and works!! 🙂

This project has gone through TONs of changes over the months, even in the last few days I have changed things.


LED light bar update:

This is a update for my LED light bar project here.

I did some quick and dirty tests to help me get an idea if its even worth finishing. here are some photos of a night time test.

  • No light at all
  • Head lights
  • LED Bar
  • Both LED and Head lights.

Now the bar only had about 80% of the lenses installed, and of the 80%, only about 85% of them had the right focus degree…The wall was about 30-35 feet away.


3D Printing and more coming SOON!

I have some great projects on the horizon!

-3D printing

-1 axis expansion board for a standard CNC to make it a 3d printer. I think i may make it open source!!

-My own 3d printer design, with unlimited expandability for X-Y-Z axises!

-Finish the LED light bar! (I need the 3d printer first) DONE!

-Put MORE crap on here!!! LOL

This new year is going to be GREAT!!!!!


Wireless Transmiter & Receiver Relay

This is a pretty simple RF remote link. It transmits at 315Mhz. The transmitter and receiver are both microcontrolled. Dip switches on both devices allow addressing from TX to RX, this allows up to 4 different TX/RX pairs to work in the same location! Dip switches on the receiver set the amount of time the relay is on. This is coded into the microcontroller.

This was intended to be used as a lockout device, hence the delay needed.

Here are some features:

  • Very good distance of operation
  • Address-ability for TX/RX pairing
  • Time out setting for the relay via dip switches
  • Wireless transmitter with battery life of YEARS
  • Override switch to manually lock on the relay(for testing)
  • PNP transistor controlled battery for transmitter; Thus the battery should last years! (with normal usage)

Automatic Wireless Mic “Ducking” or Gate Switch for TouchTunes Jukebox

UPDATE 9/14/2011

You may have read  my other post on a cheap and effective way to have a “enable” switch with a wireless microphone system. Here is a link.

Now this system works great with VHF type microphones, but I had a lot of problems with implementing it with UHF.  :^/ So i had to come up with a new system, and fast. My boss gave my basically one day!

So now we have a reliable system what will work with any wireless microphone systems, without having to open the receiver or do any soldering. So far their has been 3 Revisions of this current project… hoping 3 time is the charm!

  • REV1 – With microcontroller: works good, but gain on the mic had to be at max, this caused problems. Source code was a little messy…
  • REV2 – Without microcontroller: I used a 555 timer to get the switch on/off times, now gain on mic is no problem. Not to happy with 555 triggering….
  • REV3 – With microcontroller: Dumped the 555,  went back to the PIC, redid all the code (now I have time to tweak it) much more stable.
  • REV3.5 –  Same is REV3 but with SMD type components and a barrier block for inputs and outputs.

Here are some features:

  • Watchdog enabled on the PIC
  • Adjustable input sensitivity for the switch
  • Optically isolated switch @ 2500 Vrms!
  • Pass through audio via RCA connectors.
  • Dip switch adjustable preset “delay till off”: 5sec, 10sec and 15sec
  • Switch output can be used to trigger a MOSFET for high current switching
  • Barrier block for inputs and outputs, allowing a more universal hookup.
  • Balanced and Un-Balanced MIC  operation.
  • LEDs to indicate: Power, Gate On, and Trigger (MIC input)

I will be making a production run of these devices, if you are interested, please use this form to contact me:

All gone….

Automatic Offroad Electric Cooling Fan Dis-abler REV2

Original post

This is the second revision of my design. I added new features and lots of tweeks.

  • Delay of fan start when vehicle is turned on.
  • Delay of fan restart after the water switch has been tripped.
  • One wire water switch, based on “touch switch” technology.
  • 12 or 24 volt system ready, out of the box.
  • Lower part count, now it will fit in a much smaller case.
  • Redundant safety to keep the fan running fully, if the device fails.
  • Very low current draw when in operation.
  • Indication LED to show fan on/off state.
  • Watch Dog enabled to keep the microcontroller from locking up.

Next Rev will most likely be an all SMD device.